Echeveria Lola is an exquisite succulent. Its leaves exude a greyish-blue color with a slight hint of pink – sometimes a greenish hue – that make Echeveria Lola alluring and elegant at the same time. Each leaf appears to showcase an intricate design that some horticulturists would describe as resembling a curly bracket.
In the spring and summertime, the succulent will bloom beautiful bell-shaped flowers that are colored yellow or pear. The flowers stand atop tall and spindly stems which tend to attract many insects. Echeveria Lola also produces offsets or “pups” in the summer.
Echeveria Lola is a hybrid creation of Dick Wright who combined Echeveria derenbergii and Echeveria lilacina in 1980.
Like other varieties of Echeveria, Lola is sometimes called “Mexican Hens and Chicks” because it produces offsets. Perhaps the most distinguishable name is Lola Succulent.
Lola Succulent can grow to a height of 6-inches (15cm) and comes from the Crassulaceae family. It is native to Mexico.
How to Grow and Care for Echeveria Lola
Echeveria lolo is a favorite of succulent growers who want to present an eye-catching garden. Lola Succulent is a wonderful complement to an outdoor garden because of its beautiful leaves that give an appearance of marbled texture.
Another reason why Lola Succulent is in demand is that it is resilient to weather conditions; easy to grow and maintain.
Echeveria Lola grows best when given partial to light sun. If planted outdoors, place Echeveria Lola in an area that receives up to 6 hours of the morning sun.
Lola Succulent should not be exposed to the rays of the afternoon sun as its leaves will burn.
Ideally, the succulent should be grown where there is partial to light exposure to the morning sun and partial shade in the afternoon.
The Echeveria Lola succulent is not cold-hardy. In places where temperatures drop to 20° F (-6.7° C), the plant should be grown indoors.
Echeveria Lola is used to the harsh environment of the desert which means it can survive long periods without water. Overwatering the succulent will present more problems than under-watering.
Before watering Lola Succulent, make sure the soil is completely drenched of moisture. Insert a stick into the soil. If the stick comes out dry, it is time to give the plant water.
When watering, avoid getting the rosettes wet. You should water at the ground level and never from overhead.
3. Pot and Soil
When shopping for a pot, choose a terra cotta which is not glazed. The surface of a terra cotta pot enables water to evaporate through it and reduces the possibility of overwatering the plant.
The best choice of soil for Echeveria Lola is a well-draining variety. You can combine one part potting soil to one part perlite, gravel or sand to improve the level of drainage.
How to Propagate Echeveria Lola
Echeveria Lola can be propagated easily by using any of the following methods: Leaves, cuttings, and offsets.
Method 1 – Leaves
Step 1 – Gently twist the leaf from the stem. It must be a clean pull which means no part of the leaf must be left on the stem. A clean pull improves the chances of successful propagation.
Step 2 – Place the leaf in a shaded and dry area for 1 to 2 days to allow it to develop calluses.
Step 3 – Once the leaf has callused, place it on well-draining soil.
Method 2 – Cuttings
Step 1 – Cut a piece of the main plant at an area just above the leaf on the stem. Use a sharpened and sterilized knife or garden shears.
Step 2 – Leave the cuttings on a dry area for a few days until calluses develop.
Step 3 – When the cuttings have hardened with calluses, place them on well-draining soil.
Method 3 – Offsets
Step 1 – Use a sterilized and sharpened knife or garden shears to remove the offsets from the mother plant.
Step 2 – Leave the offsets in a dry area for a few days or until it develops calluses.
Step 3 – Once the calluses have developed, place the offsets on well-draining soil.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Echeveria Lola Toxic for Cats and Dogs?
Echeveria lola does not appear in the list of plants that are toxic for cats and dogs on the website of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA).
Why is my Echeveria Lola Succulent Dying?
If you suspect that your Echeveria Lola succulent is getting weaker or perhaps dying, there are 3 possible cause that you have to look into: Overwatering, Etiolation, and Pest Infestation
Overwatering is the number one cause of death for succulents because it leads to root rot.
When the roots are constantly wet, it begins to decay and brings in disease. From the roots, the disease will spread to the stem and leaves. You know there is root rotting if sections of the plant turn brown, blackish or if the leaves develop a yellowish color and feel mushy.
The first thing that you have to do is to cut off the infected sections with a sharpened and sterilized knife or garden shears. Then, gently remove the plant from the soil.
Cut off all the rotting roots from the plant and allow it to dry out completely. Re-pot in fresh, well-draining soil when Lola Succulent is dry.
Etiolation is a condition where the leaves of Echeveria Lola stretch out and grow limp. Horticulturists believe the leaves are stretching out in search of sunlight.
Make sure Lola Succulent gets its daily dose of partial to light sun to avoid etiolation from happening.
3. Pest Infestation
Echeveria Lola attracts pests especially mealybugs that love to drink its life-giving sap. Once the succulent is drained of sap, it will wilt and die.
You can keep mealybugs away by spraying Lola Succulent every week with neem oil. You should also remove fallen leaves and under debris near the plant.
If you see cotton-like, substances on the leaves, these are by-products of the mealybugs. You can remove them with a cotton ball that is soaked in denatured alcohol.
Does Echeveria Lola Produce Flowers?
Yes, Echeveria Lola produces flowers in the spring and summertime. The flowers are beautiful; bell-shaped with yellow and sometimes, pear colors.
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